Tuesday, December 29, 2009

My Accomplishments in 2009

I had three goals for 2009
1. I allotted $750.00 budget for 2009.

Outcome: I spent about $2000.00 dollars. And that’s a conservative figure.

A self impose a 90-day moratorium from January to March.

Outcome: the moratorium lasted 2 months.

2. Pants- I am happy with the fit in the back, the front crotch curve needs work. I tend to not refer to the books and videos in my sewing library. That is something I am planning to correct this year. My goal here is make pants with a great fit since this is one of the basic pieces I need for my wardrobe.

Outcome: I spent a great deal of time working on a TNT pants pattern. I am still not happy with the fit.

Dress sloper

Outcome: not accomplish.

3. Re-discovering my love of quilting, crochet and knitting- I have 2-3 unfinished quilts top; those will be completed this year. I am incorporating crochet and knitting projects in my plans this year.

Outcome: I knitted a purple bag. The quilts are still unfinished.

Lastly, I use a binder to organize everything. I have a binder labeled “sewing projects- current and future. This is where I document as I sew, I write about techniques, alterations, what work and what did not work, etc. Once I complete a project I file my notes and photos in another binder label completed projects.

Outcome: this was a major accomplishment. In fact I expanded this system. I have a collection of binders where I store recipes, knitting, crochet, quilting etc.

Sewing Accomplishments:

9 skirts- http://kassminscreations.blogspot.com/2009/07/skirt-ufo-1-of-5.html

http://kassminscreations.blogspot.com/2009/07/skirt-ufo-2-of-5.html

http://kassminscreations.blogspot.com/2009/08/skirt-5-of-5-done.html

http://kassminscreations.blogspot.com/2009/12/skirts-love-affair-part-2.html



3 dresses- http://kassminscreations.blogspot.com/2009/09/strapless-maxi-dress.html
http://kassminscreations.blogspot.com/2009/05/butterick-5038.html

Window Treatments- http://kassminscreation.blogspot.com/2009/10/window-treatment.html

Sewing Companion- Ms Oriana- http://kassminscreation.blogspot.com/2009/12/sewingcompanionbuddy.html

Sewing Related-
Sewing in NY City- http://kassminscreations.blogspot.com/2009/08sewing-in-nyc_30.html

Patterns Weights- http://kassminscreations.blogspot.com/2009/03/pattern-weights-and-skirts.html

Book Sale http://kassminscreations.blogspot.com/2009/05/book-sale.html

My first knit bag- http://kassminscreations.blogspot.com/2009/01/dublin-bag-snow-drift-cardigan-hats.html

Happy New Year

Monday, December 21, 2009

Happy Holidays



May you all have a joyous holiday season. May the New Year brings us peace, health and good fortune.

From my family to yours: Happy Holiday.

I am working on a simple jacket, more after New Year.

Saturday, December 5, 2009

Sewing Companion/Buddy

I bought Oriana five years ago at a local E-bay store $54.00. The owner of the store said that" it was made early 1900's". It has the original metal wire and rolling wheels.

The top (neck area) and muslin covering was soiled with spots and falling apart. It stayed in my sewing area (basement) waiting for me to bring it back to life. I read many article regarding how to cover a dress form, but for some unknown reason it seemed like a too much of a big challenge.

Well, I got tired of asking my hubby for help when I am trying to sew a blouse or a dress.
So last Tuesday I tore off the old covering, draped a lite layer of 100% natural cotton batting over the form and sewed a new dress onto the dress form.
On Wednesday I used synthetic batting (bought it years ago for a quilt and decided not to use it) from my to pad the waist, hip, etc.
On Thursday I draped a second layer of 100% cotton batting over the dress form and hand sewed a second covering.

It’s funny I have a swayback and you are not going to believe me, but the dress form also has a swayback, and the curve of my hips.
I followed the Zapp method of alteration and used black twill tape and black elastic from my stash to mark off the key areas.

Here she is my brought back to life sewing companion/buddy-
Ms Oriana




You might be wondering why I called my companion Oriana?. Well, the story goes like this: I was 14-years old when I saw a cruise ship sailed thru the Panama Canal for the first time. It was nighttime and ship's lights were bright and beautiful; Its name was Oriana.
For some unknown reason that name came to me after I finished the dress form. I felt happy after I saw the result of my work.
more laterrrrr

Tuesday, December 1, 2009

Skirts- A Love Affair Part-2




























I forgot to do a pattern review when I posted earlier.

Pattern: Self drafted, TNT pattern. The black and purple skirts are straight skirts. The hound tooth was my version of a pencil skirt.

Fabrics: Black suiting fabric from my stash
Purple print- decorator fabric I bought at the fabricwarehouse in Belleville, NJ
Hound tooth fabric- was a size 3x skirt that was giving to me 3-years.
Lining fabric- green batiste from Metro Textiles ( $1.00/yd) black and purple batiste
from my stash.
Other Stats: 8 inch centered zipper, fully lined skirts. The hound tooth skirt I made bias binding and sewed it to the waist, the black and purple skirt were finished with a peter sham waist treatment.
Later....

Monday, November 30, 2009

Skirts- A Love Affair










By now most of you who read my blog realize that I have a love affair with skirts. They are one of my favorite garments to sew and wear. I think it started 3-years ago, prior to that I wore pants 99% of the time.

I started working on the skirts the end of September and completed two black skirts by the end of October. The purple skirt was sewed in March and it only needed hemming. That was done earlier today.

The skirt to the right (hound tooth) was started Thanksgiving night and it was finished it earlier today.

http://yourskirt.com/ read a post I wrote regarding skirts and he/she invited me to visit their website. Stop by it has really nice skirt at great prices.

Photos of me wearing the skirts later....

Friday, November 27, 2009

Hello & Happy Thanksgiving

Hope everyone had a great holiday. I am sewing, slowly due to pain the my right shoulder joint. I started on a new medication last Monday and I happy to say what a relief!

Trudy from sewingwithtrudyblogspot.com/ will be getting all the patterns from my pattern giveaway.

More later..........

Saturday, October 31, 2009

Free Patterns

Free patterns. If you are interested send me an e-mail. Please write " free patterns in the subject box. The winner get it all.





























Wednesday, October 28, 2009

This Is It- Gone Too Soon




http://www.telegraph.co.uk has a great review of the Master " Michael Jackson".
This was 2-hours of the creative genius at work. I grew up with Michael's music and he's gone too soon.

This documentary gives the public an opportunity to see the master in action; also he was such a fashion icon. In the rehearsal he wore a black leather jacket with exaggerated shoulders, just beautiful!

In my opinion he was an American treasure; Yes he was imperfect, hey who isn't?

All I know is that He's gone too soon!

Sunday, October 25, 2009

Window Treatments



This was a great project. Now back to my pants muslin.

Pants 2 of 4 (posting 2)

In my last post I wrote about removing too much fullness from the back pant leg inseam and not adding what was removed to the hip area. Consequently the front side seam was pulled to the back and the grain line became distorted. See the image below:

This is the view from the back ( I went to the mall last week to buy pants for work. I wish I had someone with me to take pic of the fit. There was no problem with the front, however the back was horrible. It look exactly as the photo below).


Sometimes you have to walk away. This is going to take some time but I am going to get pants that I can live with. I also realize that the changes in my body are part of the problem. Back to the drawing board

Saturday, October 17, 2009

Pants 2 of 4

I am getting physical therapy for my injured right shoulder. So working on my pants has been a very slow process.
Below is muslin #5. This was the results of the last changes Kenneth King made to my pants pattern. As you can see there was still some fullness in the back leg.


Below is another view



Here I attempted to remove more of the fullness from the back pant leg and in the process I threw the grain line off. I did not add the amount I remove to the side seams, therefore the front side seam was pulled to the back. Needless to say it went downhill from here

The lesson learned here was: instead of trying to remove more fabric, I should have made another muslin out of a fabric that is similar to the actual fabric I plan to use and tweak it. That was Kenneth's last advice to me. That is why is the master.

I went back to the beginning reading as many resources as I could and using what I learned from the class. I started with a clean slate and added reference line to the original pattern. These lines will make it easier for me make changes without altering the grain line.

More later

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Pants 1 of 4

Since the completion of the class in NYC, I have not work on my pants muslin because of an injured right shoulder. The times it take for me to complete a task has tripled. I am getting ready to sew a few pants that will be incorporated into my work wardrobe. I embraced the concept of a workable wardrobe 2-years ago after reading an article in Stitches magazine ( one of my favorite Australian magazines). My DD does not sew, but since I injured my shoulder she has become my assistant.

My plan is to write about my progress in four parts.

Part 1- planning and gathering supplies needed for the project

Fabrics:
1. 5-yd of summer wool purchased in NYC. I cannot wear wool, but this fabric is so beautiful, it has a small percentage of wool and it should be OK with a lining.

2. Black fabric from Metro Textile. Kashi said it was appropriate for pants, skirt or jacket and it has a nice weight and drape.

3. Lining from my stash. The pants will be fully lined since they are going to become the workhorses of my working wardrobe.

Notions:
threads
zipper
waist stay
Serger threads

Here are the underlinings and the fabrics. I choose several underlining, once I start cutting the fabric at that point I will make a final decision.






Part 2
1. Sewing-up muslin #5 ( hopefully the last one). It was not completed during the class in NYC. Additionally I will be making changes to the pattern if needed (hopefully none)

2. Sewing muslin #6 out of a fabric that resembles the actual fabric. Kenneth King explained that muslin was a great fabric to work out major fitting or pattern issues; however fabrics behave differently, so before cutting your fashion fabric, make a pants out of fabric that is similar in weight and feel to the fashion fabric.

Part 3- sewing a total of 6 pants- two out of the summer wool and four out of the black fabric.

Part 4- sewing 3 pants - the same

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Strapless Maxi dress


This was one of the fabrics I bought at Metro Textiles in New York. I found this in the $1.00 box that Kashi has in the back of the store. This was easy pezzy sewing. My DD posed in the dress so I could take a picture.

Some stats
large piece of jersey knit - maybe 2 yd
light silky lining fabric- 2yd

Notions
Gutterman Orange thread
All purpose Black thread
1-inch elastic

When I saw the fabric I knew that it only needed something very simple to make it sing. I use the hip measurement and I made a simple rectangle. It has only one seam (at the side). I added a lining to keep it from clinging. I used my serger to attach the elastic and sewed it down with machine stitching ( Sandra Betzina's tip). The hem was not done when I took the photo.
I plan to wear it with a short black jacket

Sunday, August 30, 2009

Sewing in NYC

Today was the last day of the four day sewing seminar with Susan Khalje and Kenneth King. Kenneth did the last tweaking on my pants pattern. Everytime an adjustment was made on the paper pattern and recopied the pattern onto paper. I did this five times and made 4 muslin. I did not make a muslin today because I had too much pain in my right shoulder.

Of course I visited Kashi at Metro Textiles on Friday and he opened his store for the class to shop today. Of course I also bought fabrics on Friday.

In the back of the store Kashi had large boxes of scraps fabrics for $1.00 a piece. Mary and I took the time to search the box. We found 3yds of burgandy wool crepe ( the exact wool crepe that Mary brought to the class and made a beautiful vintage dress), 2yds of various color of silk charmuse, 1-1/2 yds of 60-inches wide strechy velour( the type that Juicy uses to makes their sweats suits), You get the idea. Mary and I found beautiful pieces of fabrics. Of course Kashi is mailing my loot to my home.

Here are photos of Kenneth's creation. I wish you could see the artistry and mastery of these jackets


Here is Susan and Ann from Gorgeous fabrics

Here is great Kenneth



Saturday, August 29, 2009

Sewing In NYC

Well, today I worked on my pants sloper. So far I have made 4 muslin, tomorrow I will make muslin #5. I think that is the last adjustment. Thankfully, only the back leg need adjustment. The pant front is done. it don't need any adjustment.

Tomorrow is the last day of the class, and hopefully my pant sloper will be done. More later.....

Friday, August 28, 2009

Sewing in New York City

Hello:

I am having a wonderful time with Susan, Kenneth and all the ladies in the class.

Kenneth is talented, knowledgeable, and full of information. He is vivacious and in constant motion. He is creative. He is a genius. I am totally mesmerize by him. Most important he is absolutely gorgeousssssssssssssssssssss.

Susan is pretty, calm, controlled, talented, creative and a master of the craft. She is soooooo knowledgeably. I am soaking-up every bit of information Susan and Kenneth are sharing with the class.

I am working on my pants sloper. My muslin was OK, it only needed some tweaking. Kenneth is working with me. I learned how to removed extra fabric from the back pant leg and in the front by using a horizontal line and an I-dart to remove fullness.

More later

Tuesday, August 25, 2009

Sewing Class

Sewing with Susan Khalje and Kenneth. Class start on Thursday. A muslin of the garment that you want to work on must be brought to the class.

I made a pants muslin in 6/08. I am planning to take it with me. I don't know what pattern I used when I made the muslin because I did not write it down.

Today I worked on altering another pattern. It took all day because of pain my right shoulder ( had surgery recently), I have to work in small increments of time.

Tomorrow, I am planning to check the crotch length, and my daughter is going to help me by cutting out a second muslin for me and then I can put it together.

Wednesday, August 5, 2009

Skirt- 5 of 5- Done

This is the last post regarding the Bronx skirts series. Below is the pic.

I swore that I will never buy anything that needed that much work. Well after working on the Bronx skirt series I changed my mind. I love the fabrics and I was force to figure out a way to make it work. First, I will like to thank Summerset for her suggestion when I wrote about skirt #4. She got me started. Second, the idea for the black band around skirt # 4 was borrowed from Carolyn(She attached a yellow band to a floral skirt). Third the other ideas came so many other blogs that I read ( Lisa, Adrienne, Sheila and so many others).

Review:

Description: Four ready made skirts

Size: 3X- 4X

Fabric: cotton and cotton flannel

Problems:
1. The construction was poor
2. There was no facing in the zipper area
3. The side seams were uneven, there was 1/2" - 1 1/2" difference
4 There was no waist stay to prevent the waist from streching
5. Cotton flannel skirt- the needle left holes in the side seams probably due to using a needle that was too large for the fabric
6. All four skirts had large floral designs that needed to be match
7. The skirts were cut on the bias

Solution:
1. The skirts were taken apart
2. The uneveness of the hem was corrected
3. I used the corrected front and back skirt and made a paper pattern. I then used this pattern to correct the other skirts
4. I inserted a side seam zipper(center) in the skirts except for skirt #4 I did an elastic waist.
5. Stay tape was added to the waist and the zipper area was reinforced with interfacing.
6. Skirt # 4 a bias piece of black fabric was cut and sewn to the hem
Skirt # 5 had a mottif of brown floral designs and a purple band; this was removed and the purple band cut off and re-attached to the skirt as a single band. The brown was added to the hem.

Conclusion: I will do it again because it was a learning experience. The skirts are of better quality it fit me perfectly and I am happy with the results.

Tuesday, August 4, 2009

Skirt- Photos

I wrote about this skirt in a previous post. Before

Here is after.

I have one more pic to post, and I will do one review for all five skirts. Later

Sunday, August 2, 2009

Skirt- UFO 5 of 5

The picture below was posted in a previous post. The hem was uneven.


Here is the remake.

Saturday, August 1, 2009

Skirt- UFO 4 of 5

Version #4 of the skirt remake. Here I recut the fabric and re-attached in a different order. The original look of this skirt was change.

America, Happy Birthdate