I dedicated the month of February to work on getting a better fitting pants pattern. Last night I called it quits. I made 5 muslin, reviewed the photos I took of the muslins highlighten the problem areas, notes and photos from vogue 1003 muslin I made in October 2007 and I realize the results were the same.
The fit in the crotch is my major problem.
I spent most of the day going through my sewing library, looking for information that will help me to improve the fit in the crotch area. I found the following:
1. 3- articles written by Joyce Murphy for Threads Magazine in December, 2005/January 2006, June/July 2005 and October/November 2008 regarding how to fit pants.
Joyce marked 13 key points on the pattern and making a pants muslin without any alteration. Once the muslin is made up the 13 key points must be mark.
She explain about the crotch curve shape and its many variation based on each person individual body. I notice that Joyce did not use the crotch depth measurement nor does she advocate extending the crotch point, instead she makes the crotch curve deeper.
2. Nancy Zieman's pattern fitting with confidence, I re-read the section dedicated to pants fitting, and just like Joyce Murphy, Nancy labeled the exact 13 key points and she does not use the crotch depth. Also she adds or take away from the crotch lenght by using the crotch curve.
3. The Zapp Method of Pattern Alteration- this book demonstrate how to take extensive measurements by separating the back and front measurements for example: front hip and back hip measurements are taken separately. Another measurement is taken 3 inches below the waist.
4. I re-read my notes from the pattern drafting class I tooked in 2007. Skirts and pants share the same measurements with the exception of the crotch lenght, the pant side lenght and the inseam. On measurement that stand out was taken 1 1/2 inches below the waist. This ensures that the pants or skirt will fit in the abdomen area, if you have a tummy.
Well, I spent the day in my kitchen reading, cooking and doing the laundry. It was a productive day.
For the month of March- I am going to continue working on my TNT pants. But first I am going to sew a couple of skirts.
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