Monday, January 18, 2010

New Look 6316

I started working on this jacket in December.
A simple unstructured jacket that would become the workhorse of my working wardrobe. The jacket has a large amount of ease. I started with a size 8, lenghten the waist, reduce the shoulder lenght and the back width.

The first muslin revealed the following:
In the back
Too much fabric between my shoulder blades and upper back; also between the breast line and waist due to my swayback
The shoulder slope needed to be corrected.

I drop the shoulder slope by 1/2 inch and I removed 1" of fabric from my upper back and 1' from the lower waist area.

I added a center back seam to help with my swayback and I added darts to provide shaping.

Here are the results

As you can see the wrinkle on the right hip area??????

I asked Paco and Cenetta for helpppppppp. In the meantime I spent the last two weeks doing a lot of reading about jacket construction and I must say the time was worth it.

Cenetta suggested adding shoulder pads to check the fit. I am going to implement her suggestion. Paco suggested lowering the waist because I removed 1" of lenght from the middle.

I did both and I made up a new paper pattern with the changes. Next is muslin #2.

It is so important to know your body and the type of alteration you needed in order to make a pattern yours. Hopefully, I will get a jacket I am happy with and it will become my sloper for all others

More later....


Angela said...

Can't wait to see you next muslin... hope the suggestions fix the problem.

Adrienne said...

Hope the next muslin fixes it.

Kathy said...

It's nice to be able to adjust clothes to our shape and wear things that fit.....Good Job!!

Sheila said...

Its great when you can get sewing help from internet buddies. Looking forward to your FO.

M 8791 Childhood Friend Birthday Dress