Monday, January 18, 2010
New Look 6316
I started working on this jacket in December.
A simple unstructured jacket that would become the workhorse of my working wardrobe. The jacket has a large amount of ease. I started with a size 8, lenghten the waist, reduce the shoulder lenght and the back width.
The first muslin revealed the following:
In the back
Too much fabric between my shoulder blades and upper back; also between the breast line and waist due to my swayback
The shoulder slope needed to be corrected.
I drop the shoulder slope by 1/2 inch and I removed 1" of fabric from my upper back and 1' from the lower waist area.
I added a center back seam to help with my swayback and I added darts to provide shaping.
Here are the results
As you can see the wrinkle on the right hip area??????
I asked Paco and Cenetta for helpppppppp. In the meantime I spent the last two weeks doing a lot of reading about jacket construction and I must say the time was worth it.
Cenetta suggested adding shoulder pads to check the fit. I am going to implement her suggestion. Paco suggested lowering the waist because I removed 1" of lenght from the middle.
I did both and I made up a new paper pattern with the changes. Next is muslin #2.
It is so important to know your body and the type of alteration you needed in order to make a pattern yours. Hopefully, I will get a jacket I am happy with and it will become my sloper for all others
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