Sunday, February 21, 2010
I don't understand why when you solve one fitting issues another one appears. Oh well... I had gaposis in the armhole area. I remove 3/4' from the shoulder tapering to nothing at the neckline, it helped but did not remove all of the fullness. I made a dart in the armhole area to remove the balance of the fullness, then I transferred from the muslin to the paper pattern.
When you make a change to the pattern sometimes it distorts the shape of the paper pattern. You have to re-draft the distorted area. Another issue that I had was fullness within the pattern. I had the privilege to attend a class with Susan Khalje and Kenneth King. I worked mostly with Kenneth, and all the problem I encountered with this jacket I and how to solve each one was taught to me by Kenneth.
I don't know about you guys, but I am a visual person, once I see either via video or personal demonstration I stays recorded in my memory. Kenneth is doing a whole series in Thread's magazine regarding fitting issues. PLEASE check it out and save and guard the instructions with your sewing life..LOLLLLLL
I took detailed pictures of this process and once the jacket is done I will write a post explaining the process.
Next: fitting the sleeves. Thank you Faye for sharing how to remove ease from the sleeve cap.
Friday, February 19, 2010
I got some help from the mahoganystylist.com and paco.
I went back to the muslin and lowered the waist by 1/2 inch,repositioned the darts, removed 1-2 inches of fullness from the side seam and made minor changes to the shoulder seam.
I cut out a second jacket and the fit was much better. The sleeve that came with the pattern had 4-5 inches of ease and the upper arm measurement was too small.
I decided to try my hand at drafting a sleeve using my measurements. I use http://www.vintagesewing.info/ and books from my sewing library. In the end I use most of the info from vintage sewing..
I cannot find the jacket. I looked everywhere. Tomorrow I will cut and sew another jacket so that I can fit the sleeves.
P.S. ignore the dates on the photos. I did not set the date and time on my camera.
I am going to work on this jacket until I get it right and it become a TNT pattern for me.
I started working on the jacket the end of December and I have refered to my sewing library for guidance and some direction because the last time I sewed a jacket was in the late 70's or early 80's when anything I sewed fit with little or no effort. Now... I will not go there.
Here is a list of the books I read:
1. The Art of Sewing ( Basic Tailoring, Classic Techniques,The Custom Look. Separates That Travel)
2. The Complete Book of Tailoring by Adele Margolis
3. Fit for Real People and Jacket for Real People by Palmer Pletsh
Hopefully, I will be able to complete a wearable muslin soon.....
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