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Showing posts from February, 2010

Jacket- New Look 6316- Quick Update

I found the jacket muslin. I worked on it for most the day yesterday until 9:00pm last night.

I don't understand why when you solve one fitting issues another one appears. Oh well... I had gaposis in the armhole area. I remove 3/4' from the shoulder tapering to nothing at the neckline, it helped but did not remove all of the fullness. I made a dart in the armhole area to remove the balance of the fullness, then I transferred from the muslin to the paper pattern.

When you make a change to the pattern sometimes it distorts the shape of the paper pattern. You have to re-draft the distorted area. Another issue that I had was fullness within the pattern. I had the privilege to attend a class with Susan Khalje and Kenneth King. I worked mostly with Kenneth, and all the problem I encountered with this jacket I and how to solve each one was taught to me by Kenneth.

I don't know about you guys, but I am a visual person, once I see either via video or personal demonstration I stays rec…

Jacket- New Look 6316

This was the photo from my last post.



I got some help from the mahoganystylist.com and paco.





I went back to the muslin and lowered the waist by 1/2 inch,repositioned the darts, removed 1-2 inches of fullness from the side seam and made minor changes to the shoulder seam.
I cut out a second jacket and the fit was much better. The sleeve that came with the pattern had 4-5 inches of ease and the upper arm measurement was too small.I decided to try my hand at drafting a sleeve using my measurements. I use http://www.vintagesewing.info/ and books from my sewing library. In the end I use most of the info from vintage sewing..I cannot find the jacket. I looked everywhere. Tomorrow I will cut and sew another jacket so that I can fit the sleeves.
P.S. ignore the dates on the photos. I did not set the date and time on my camera.I am going to work on this jacket until I get it right and it become a TNT pattern for me.I started working on the jacket the end of December and I have refered to my sewing…