I found the jacket muslin. I worked on it for most the day yesterday until 9:00pm last night.
I don't understand why when you solve one fitting issues another one appears. Oh well... I had gaposis in the armhole area. I remove 3/4' from the shoulder tapering to nothing at the neckline, it helped but did not remove all of the fullness. I made a dart in the armhole area to remove the balance of the fullness, then I transferred from the muslin to the paper pattern.
When you make a change to the pattern sometimes it distorts the shape of the paper pattern. You have to re-draft the distorted area. Another issue that I had was fullness within the pattern. I had the privilege to attend a class with Susan Khalje and Kenneth King. I worked mostly with Kenneth, and all the problem I encountered with this jacket I and how to solve each one was taught to me by Kenneth.
I don't know about you guys, but I am a visual person, once I see either via video or personal demonstration I stays recorded in my memory. Kenneth is doing a whole series in Thread's magazine regarding fitting issues. PLEASE check it out and save and guard the instructions with your sewing life..LOLLLLLL
I took detailed pictures of this process and once the jacket is done I will write a post explaining the process.
Next: fitting the sleeves. Thank you Faye for sharing how to remove ease from the sleeve cap.
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