Friday, February 19, 2010

Jacket- New Look 6316

This was the photo from my last post.

I got some help from the and paco.

I went back to the muslin and lowered the waist by 1/2 inch,repositioned the darts, removed 1-2 inches of fullness from the side seam and made minor changes to the shoulder seam.
I cut out a second jacket and the fit was much better. The sleeve that came with the pattern had 4-5 inches of ease and the upper arm measurement was too small.

I decided to try my hand at drafting a sleeve using my measurements. I use and books from my sewing library. In the end I use most of the info from vintage sewing..

I cannot find the jacket. I looked everywhere. Tomorrow I will cut and sew another jacket so that I can fit the sleeves.

P.S. ignore the dates on the photos. I did not set the date and time on my camera.

I am going to work on this jacket until I get it right and it become a TNT pattern for me.

I started working on the jacket the end of December and I have refered to my sewing library for guidance and some direction because the last time I sewed a jacket was in the late 70's or early 80's when anything I sewed fit with little or no effort. Now... I will not go there.

Here is a list of the books I read:

1. The Art of Sewing ( Basic Tailoring, Classic Techniques,The Custom Look. Separates That Travel)

2. The Complete Book of Tailoring by Adele Margolis

3. Fit for Real People and Jacket for Real People by Palmer Pletsh

Hopefully, I will be able to complete a wearable muslin soon.....


Camelia Crinoline said...

I'm really interested to see your process of sewing a jacket. I've never attempted one before because they seem so difficult. I look forward to seeing your wearable muslin.

Unknown said...

Keep up the good work, and I hope the jacket turns up quickly!

Mariela Alethia said...

Thank you ladies. Camelia once I am done with the jacket I will do a post of the entire process.

Faye Lewis said...

Looks like you are coming along nicely in working out the quirks with your muslin. There is nothing like a good fitting jacket.

Jackie's Stitches said...

It must hurt a bit to have the jacket missing. I hope it turns up soon. I don't know anything about sewing garments (but would like to one day) or drafting patterns but I'm very interested in clothes that actually fit well!

Sheila said...

Your presistence will definitely pay off. I need darts in nearly everything I make and have actually made a dart

Looking forward to your progress post on your next version.

Mariela Alethia said...

Thank Sheila for the idea of a dart template. I have copy a dart to move it up or down, but never though about a template.MMM I am definetely going to make one. It saves a lot of time.

Michelle said...

Very ambitious! I'll be watching to see your progress!