Monday, June 28, 2010

Burda 7866

I started working on this pattern for my DD. I used a cheap jersey knit like fabric that I bought at the fabric warehouse for 0.50/yd ( had to buy 10 yd to get it at that price) and made 3 muslin, now you would think that this was an easy pattern. Well, yes and no. The first muslin needed more ease in the hip area, the second muslin I made an error in cutting and the third muslin I added bust darts and the sleeves were wonky.

I reviewed my notes from the last class I took with Connie Crawford and proceeded to balance the pattern, which I should have done first. As you can see from the picture below I added extra tissue paper to various area of the patterns
Connie suggest that you star off with a balance pattern before you attempt to fit and alter a pattern. You must check that:

1. The back shoulder should be 1/2 inch higher than the front shoulder
2 the center front should be 1/2 inch wider than the center back. Line up the front and back pieces matching seam allowances and proceed to check your pattern.
3. The front and back bust line should line up, the same with the waist and the side seam. If your pattern have a bust dart you should transfer the bust dart to the shoulder in order to ensure that your pattern is balance. If you add a bust dart don't forget to add to the same amount to the front lower hem from the side seam tapering to nothing at the center front.
Note: mark the bust line and the waistline on the front pattern and line up the back pattern and mark across.

In the end I made the pattern work, but this was a poorly drafted pattern and if you take a close look at the pattern you will see that the sleeves on the model are twisted, the neckline opening on the pattern is smaller than it appears on the envelope. I enlarge the neckline quite a bit

My DD and I are happy with the outcome of the third muslin. I used a total of 6-yd of muslin fabrics. I may add back darts, not sure. More later....

McCalls 5390

Done. I finished this skirt 2-weeks ago and wore it to work. Here it is on "Oriana"

Thursday, June 17, 2010


I sort of lost my sewing mojo. Responsibilities at work and home have taken a hold on me. So last night after seeing sheila's jacket I found myself back at my sewing machine.

I worked on the skirt and it's almost done. I cut a3-inch wide bias strips out of the same fabric to make bias binding for the waist and I will finish the hem on the lining tonight. I rip the skirt out three times for one reason or another; this was due to cutting out the wrong patter pieces ( I did not readdddddd). Also the fact that I choose plaid became a little bit of a challenge and top stitching the pleats was time consuming. In the end it turn out to be a very pretty skirt. Pic coming soon. The red jacket, I am not happy with the sleeves; however sheila pointed me in the direction. Also after taking Connie Crawford's class I will be able to improve on the fit. I am going to add a lining to the jacket and who knows I might change the style of sleeve completely.

Tuesday, June 8, 2010

Connie Crawford - Fitting the Mature Bodice

I signed up for this class at Fabricland in March. The class was today and it was an education. Connie is truly a teacher and a patternmaker. She taught the importance of balance in the side seam and shoulder. Lots of information and great handouts. She encourages the class to listen and not to bother with taking notes because the handouts material has all the information.

She brought a rack full of garments she made from her pattern line, this way the class was able to look at each garment up close. She had several of her patterns pin and ready to fit and she fitted several ladies in the class. The fit was perfect.

She instructed the class to buy dress and blouse patterns based on your bust measurement instead of your high bust measurement.......? Anyway I am going to give her patterns a try.