Monday, June 28, 2010

Burda 7866

I started working on this pattern for my DD. I used a cheap jersey knit like fabric that I bought at the fabric warehouse for 0.50/yd ( had to buy 10 yd to get it at that price) and made 3 muslin, now you would think that this was an easy pattern. Well, yes and no. The first muslin needed more ease in the hip area, the second muslin I made an error in cutting and the third muslin I added bust darts and the sleeves were wonky.

I reviewed my notes from the last class I took with Connie Crawford and proceeded to balance the pattern, which I should have done first. As you can see from the picture below I added extra tissue paper to various area of the patterns
Connie suggest that you star off with a balance pattern before you attempt to fit and alter a pattern. You must check that:

1. The back shoulder should be 1/2 inch higher than the front shoulder
2 the center front should be 1/2 inch wider than the center back. Line up the front and back pieces matching seam allowances and proceed to check your pattern.
3. The front and back bust line should line up, the same with the waist and the side seam. If your pattern have a bust dart you should transfer the bust dart to the shoulder in order to ensure that your pattern is balance. If you add a bust dart don't forget to add to the same amount to the front lower hem from the side seam tapering to nothing at the center front.
Note: mark the bust line and the waistline on the front pattern and line up the back pattern and mark across.

In the end I made the pattern work, but this was a poorly drafted pattern and if you take a close look at the pattern you will see that the sleeves on the model are twisted, the neckline opening on the pattern is smaller than it appears on the envelope. I enlarge the neckline quite a bit

My DD and I are happy with the outcome of the third muslin. I used a total of 6-yd of muslin fabrics. I may add back darts, not sure. More later....


Sheila said...

Glad your were able to fix the kinks.

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