Friday, November 12, 2010

New Look 6808

In my previous post you saw that the muslin only needed tweaking. I made muslin #5, in a dark grey fabric. I relay on photos to fit myself in the back and the gray fabric made it easier for me to see what exactly what correction I needed to make.
The pink muslin was fine; it only needed a bit of tweaking. I sewed this muslin following the Bishop's method. The results was a better fitting muslin. The grey muslin was hand basted and that made a difference in the overall fit and looks of the muslin.

The following are notes from this process:
1.I moved the zipper from the side seam to the center back seam. The pattern instructions called for the zipper to be inserted into the side seam. I am working with two muslins, one has the zipper in the side seam and the second muslin has the zipper in the center back seam.

2.I did not compare the center back length and center front length measurements of the pattern to my CB and CF length measurements. After comparing the measurements, the CB was length by 3’’to the CF was length by 2”. A swayback adjustment was done in the early stages of fitting the pattern. The addition of length to the CB and CF improved the fit of the muslin. A swayback adjustment was done in the early stages and once the CB and CF were corrected the fit in the back was better. Also the CB of curved and fits my swayback.

3. I decreased the length of the back dart by one-inch and did the same in the front.

4. There was gaposis in the front neckline. ½” was removed; once the zipper was removed from the side seam and inserted into CB; this lead to the removal of an additional ½” from the neckline.

5. Next: Sewing the pattern out of a fashion fabric. This is work in progress, my ultimate goal is for this pattern to become a TNT.

This was a journey that started when I took a fitting class in October 2000. In this class I learned how to do alterations to a basic dress. That my introduction to fitting and altering a pattern. Fast forward to 2007, I enrolled in a fashion design class at the community college. The first class was learning to draft a dress sloper with long sleeves. The skirt was drafted first. That was very easy. Because most of the class did not know how to use a sewing machine, a simple skirt became a time consuming process. Towards the end of the semester the teacher rushed through the bodice sloper and it was a disaster....I became so frustrated that I refused to enroll in any more classes.

Do you know what made the difference and why I was able to finally fit this blouse/dress sloper? It is you guys. I learned from all the blogs I read. I bought books based on a blogger's suggestion ( The Bishop Method of Sewing, Adele Margolis). I watched sewing videos, I read Threads Magazines articles including the last series of fitting articles done by Kenneth King etc. The fact is that you guys in sewing blog world are the best. To all of you who took the time to post detailed instruction on your blogs and gave tips how to accomplish a sewing task, Thank You so very much

Lastly, the sloper is not perfect, and it will improve as I work with it.

3 comments:

Carolyn said...

Hi, thanks for your comment!
Having a TNT pattern is a priceless advantage. Once you have these fitting issues sorted out you'll be so well equipped to run up your wardrobe in a flash! I'm glad a bad class experience did not put you off sewing, as it would so many people.

Michelle said...

Wow, that is a lot of work you have put in to this! Great work!

Cennetta said...

You have certainly put a lot of work into fitting your sloper. When you are done, it will be perfect. I'm too lazy to go through this many iterations to get it perfect.

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