Sunday, April 19, 2015

Customize Dress Form and TNT Dress Pattern

FYI- do not use old sheet, the weave it tight making it difficult to get pins to into the fabric and it wrinkles like hell, no amount of ironing takes the wrinkles out.


My DD belongs to an organization that wears white to their formal and semi-formal events. This organization has rules regarding the type and length of the garment that can be worn by the ladies. Three weeks ago she asked me to sew a dress with a jacket for an upcoming event. I decided to use a fitting pattern that I had in my collection B-6092. My goal was to work out her fitting issues in the muslin, make a customize dress form and have a basic TNT dress pattern for her.

I choose the size of the pattern based on the high bust measurement.  I compared her measurements against the pattern measurements and I did the following changes to the pattern:

1.      Decreased the shoulder length

2.      Lowered the bust point

3.      Lengthen the waist- this was done after the bust point length was adjusted

4.      After comparing the slope of her shoulder and the pattern, I did a slope shoulder adjustment

5.      Added 1-inch from the bust point to the side seam

6.      Added 1- inch to the front waist pattern

The muslin was cut and fitted and the following alteration/adjustments were done:

1-     1-inch of fabric was removed from the chest area above the bust

2-     1.5-inches of fabric was removed from the lower back

3-     Adjusted the shoulder line for a forward shoulder

4-     Re-adjust the position of the bust dart

5-     Pin-out two inches from the center back; this change the center line seam line from straight to the shape of a S; this corrected most of the swayback issues.

The second muslin was cut and fitted after the above adjustments were made. I added the skirt to the second muslin, and it only needed minor tweaking. I followed the instructions for customize your dress form (CRAFTSY Class) and padded the mannequin and here are the results. I check the measurements of the dress form and the shoulder length, center front length, center back length, waist and bust circumference are exactly the same as my DD. I need to adjust the side seam line to balance the hip measurement.

Please forgive the wrinkles it is the fabric. Remember don’t use 110% cotton old sheets


Sheila said...

Awesome job !

Unknown said...

Great job!

Unknown said...

You did a great job!

Mariela Alethia said...

Thank you Etta, it was a lot of work,

M 8791 Childhood Friend Birthday Dress