Tuesday, September 29, 2015

The Amazing Coat Sew Along- The Muslin-2

I am wearing the muslin, it was underline and the fit is snug. After I took the photos I decreased the seam allowance from 5/8- 1/4. The fit improved in terms of ease, I still have a few more decisions to make... work in progress.

Sunday, September 27, 2015

The Amazing Coat Sew Along- The Muslin

Burda 6727 is an unlined jacket with an integral collar. After checking the finished measurements I choose a size 10. I had to read the pattern instructions a few times regarding how to sew the dart and the collar. The pattern instructions are basic, interfacing is only added to the back neck and the front pattern.. I recommend that you use the instruction only for sewing the front collar, the shoulder seam and attaching the collar to the back neck seam . If you have a good sewing book, this will be the time to use it as a reference.
Fabric: medium weight purple denim with no stretch; it was underline with grey batiste. The coat was sewn and tried on and the following was noted:
 a) The fit in the neck, shoulders and upper back was good. A slope shoulder adjustment is a must for me. Correction- ½ inch slope shoulder adjustment
 b) The fit from the bust to the hip was snug. Correction- add 5/8- from the armhole to the hem
c) Add 3-inches to the length
d) Remove ½-inch from the back shoulder and add ½-inch to the front shoulder e) Add ¼ to the center back seam
f) The muslin also revealed that I need chest support. I may use this tip from Gertie to add chest support and shoulder pads to the coat.

I am please that I took the time to work on the muslin today. Tomorrow I will make the adjustments on the pattern and I will  be ready for October 1.

Sunday, September 20, 2015

The Amazing Coat Sew Along- Fabrics, Books & Videos

Fabrics: too many choices, here are the contenders:

The purple fabric is a light to medium weight denim that I am going to use to make a muslin to check the fit.

The fabric is a wine color dark purple.

FYI- do not put iron on interfacing (fabric type) or any other type in the washing machine. Ask me how I know. What was I thinking? Instead run hot water from the faucet and soak the interfacing until the water gets cold. Lightly squeeze the water out and hang to dry.

Books and Videos
Erica wrote a post concerning tailoring books that she uses. I have the same books except for the illustrated guide to tailoring. In addition to the books I will be referring to the books below. The Bishop Method of Construction- they are my favorite books to read. 

The Vogue Book of Sewing and The Complete books to Tailoring by Adele Margolis is another favorite.

Craftsy- Essential Guide to Tailoring- Structure and Shape by Allison Smith

You Tube- The Making of a Coat. If you have the time and you’re interested in tailoring techniques and lots of hand stitching check this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6tlEoqDKT0

Sunday, September 13, 2015

Sew- Alongs, Lessons Learned - The Amazing Coat-Sew-Along

In the last nine years I’ve joined two or three sew-along and failed at each one. When I read about a sew-along my anxiety level goes from 0-10, until, Faye had the Carnival of Skirts Sew-Along. Of course I jumped on the skirt bandwagon because skirts are my favorite garment to sew. That was my first successful sew-a-long.
The reason for my success:
1.I use a TNT skirt pattern that I’ve used countless time and sewn it in all type of fabrics
2.During the sew-a-long, I devised plan and dedicated ½ - 1 hour sewing time

 Here is why I failed in the other sew-a-longs:
1.I joined the sew-along without considering the time it would require, the type of garment(s), and my level of sewing.
2. The choice of patterns- I choose patterns that I did not work with before. This caused me to spend too much time fitting and altering the pattern. Lesson learned: choose a pattern that you have worked with before, maybe a TNT pattern. In fact I believe TNT pattern(s) should be the pattern(s) of choice.

For the last two winters my sewing sister shared her love of coats. My sister has a wonderful collection of fabulous coats including the ones she made. I’ve never given my coats a second look, I own maybe one heavy winter coat, two light coats for fall and spring and that’s it.  The idea of making a coat and updating my coat closet has been on my mind for a while. And here come Erica  with the Amazing Coat Sew-Along. When I first read about the sew-along and I decided that I would stand on sidelines and cheer everyone else on. Once Erica started the daily post I started to move from the sidelines to getting in line. What made me leave the sidelines and get on the bandwagon?                   1. You get to choose the pattern. I choose a very simple pattern. Straight stich sewing. This is the first time I am sewing a coat and I want it simple. Alterations and fitting will be kept to a minimal, my first goal is to have a wearable coat. The second goal is to use my very, very, and very extensive stash. I have interlining, lining, shoulder pads, etc. The long term goal is for my chosen pattern to become a TNT pattern.                                                                                                           2. This post took me from the sidelines onto the bandwagon. The first paragraph was the deal maker for me: “When I start to think about what pattern I want to use to make a coat, I first think of the need it will fill in my wardrobe. Will this coat be a necessity? Will this coat be a classic coat that I plan on wearing for many years to come? Or will this be a trendy coat in a fun color or print? Also, other variables I must take into consideration? When will I wear it? And does it really meet the standards of my lifestyle and climate?” Next pattern and fabric.

Finding My Style